BrassClef Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 hetman all the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 fill up your tub with warm water Note he said warm water. This is really important if you have an older instrument with nitrocellulose lacquer, as hot water will melt the finish. Lye-based cleaning solutions will do likewise. And any solder repairs will burn the lacquer. Plated horns and those with a baked epoxy finish are exempt from this warning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kansan Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Is it possible to give my horn a flush at home with a garden hose or something? and if so, does anyone have any tips? I might want to try it. My King feels like it's got a ton of resistance. I was told to buy a trash can just for cleaning horns and fill it with water and Simple Green. Simple Green is supposed to be able to clean with out messing up the finish. I've always used Dawn dishwashing liguid to degrease and clean my bugles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OleMissRebel Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Yea dawn works for me and I love blue juice but I will say that if you are not planning on playing it regularly don't use blue juice because it can have a tendency to crystalize versus evaporate but the same principles that make it crystalize are the same ones that make it last long as long as you are playing regularly. I have used it for a decade now on bachs, yahamas, stomvis, kings, blessings and taylors and it was worked great on all of them. Just my two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrassClef Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Most lacquered horns don't leave soaking for too long, as you never quite know what type of lacquer is on the horn - and even just water can eventually strip it. Diluted simple green 6:1 is what we used at repair school to degrease and sterilize the horns. 3-5 minutes should be long enough. Then snake the brush through and rinse. I use an air compressor to dry the horns. Edited January 10, 2013 by BrassClef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_7 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I just use the al cass fast stuff. Back when I had the option to do competitive drumcorps and when outside in dry conditions, you can get away with using a spray bottle with water like trombonists use. Or at least that's how'd you save yourself a bottle and a half of valve oil when rehearsing in utah for a couple of days. But it's not always a simple answer. Many of the newer horns have tighter tollerances and need thinner oils. Rotor oil is some of the thicker type stuff so you probably want to avoid using that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbwhat? Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 If the valves are monel, (it has a dull gray look to it), then polishing the valves with brass polish can remove some deposits that may be causing the valves to be sluggish. Nickel plated valves are less prone to this problem, but in anycase, cleaning tarnish and other residue that builds up on the valves will definitely help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchromik Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 *shrugs* I use blue juice exclusively in all my horns and have never had a problem. I must be doing it wrong... :lookaround:/> Second this notion. I've used Blue Juice on a variety of small bore horns since getting back into playing about a decade ago. On my close tolerance Yama 204 mello, I often go for weeks without oiling. I had a big bottle for years and used it so infrequently it turned clear with age. Back in the 80s in corps and in 'real' life I used the Al Cass Fast. It was good but I seem to remember applying it far more often. Sounds like good advice to give the valves a flush before changing brands. I hear synthetics and real oil do not play nice. Crossing the streams is BAD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Another Sop Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I have been using Al Cass Fast ever since Pro Oil stopped making the blue synthetic they had. Recently, I have found a valve oil that works better than any oil I have ever use in my 45 years of playing brass. It is called "T2". Clean the horn, valve, and valve casings really good so as not to mix oils, then use T2. I think you will be amazed at the performance. For anyone, if you have never tried T2, spend the money and give a bottle a try. It really is amazing how well it works. I also really like the bottle. To dispense, you have to touch the tip to the valve. It doesnt squirt just by tipping it over like most valve oils and thus doesnt spill on the horn or floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bo Park Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 The two oils I've used is Al Cass (still use it to this day) and Hetmans valve oils. Blue Juice never seemed to work well for me, even after I applied it with a thorough horn flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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