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Contra Mouthpiece?


Shadow_7

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Any recommendations for a Contra mouthpiece? For use on a Deg 4 valve contra in G.

At current I'm leaning towards an LM-4, LM-5, or LM-6. Or should I just get a Helleberg? I have an LM-10, but it's too shallow to push the upper dynamics on the horn. If the LM-10 was about 20% deeper, it'd probably pretty good for the application. The LM-10 does wonderful at mezzo-forte or softer. I know I need a deeper cup. Any insights?

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to get a new leadpipe for the deg contras? And how much that'd run? A lot of the ones I've seen out there seem to have damaged leadpipes, and it'd be nice to have at least one good leadpipe laying around should something happen.

Thanks

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Well I personally stand by the ole' helleberg. I prefer the flatter rim of the 7B version, though that's just my favoritism. I play a 5/4 Kanstul in G, and the 7B seems to be a match made in heaven. The sound is full, and in control from the low extreme of dynamics through the top. I have some issues with notes on the horn that don't speak well to begin with. IMO, it's largely up to what the player is most comfortable with. Though there is a reason that the hellebergs are a workhorse in drum corps contra lines.

Edited by Phirefenix
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Well I personally stand by the ole' helleberg.

Well, I got the Helleberg. They actually had a 7B there too. I went with the STD one because it appeared to have a deeper cup. The 7B had a nicer rim. But the STD wasn't that much different. It's a much better match for the horn, although I'll probably get the LM equivalent eventually. For now my virgin contra chops are just happy to have to room to buzz.

Spec wise the Helleberg seems to eyeball at about 32.7mm-ish for the inner rim, somewhat deep cup. It looks like the LM equivalent is roughly an LM-6 or LM-7. Although, you can get different rims so does it really matter, as long as the cup isn't shallow. The Helleberg rim seems to be much flatter than my TJ or C4 LM rims. The C4 rim is probably closest, but is more rounded/cushioned than the helleberg. Anyone know what rim the LM-6 or 7 comes with?

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For educational purposes, here's why you should remove and clean your bottom valve caps.

caps.jpg

I had to literally use plyers to get these caps off. Padded with a bicycle inner tube and much care of course. Sluggish valves are now pretty slick. Any suggestions for Contra I&E?

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I had to literally use plyers to get these caps off. Padded with a bicycle inner tube and much care of course. Sluggish valves are now pretty slick. Any suggestions for Contra I&E?

Never use plyers even protected you can cause flat spots on the valve casings. It doesn't take much.

My removal method. I always soak them with a good penitrating oil (over night works best). I like PB Blaster myself. **Warning** PB Blaster can cause severe skin irratation wear gloves!. A thin wide strap wrench tool work good when they are very stubborn. Unless you're like me with Kung-foo grip.

BTW! Your bottom caps weren't a tenth as ugly and discusting as my sousaphone's. When I cleaned them I killed about 4 million completly new strings of bacteria. Bill Nye could have done a couple shows on those spores. It was quite foul!

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I used penetrating lubricant too. I probably cleaned off a good layer of gunk when I sprayed the penetrating lubricant on the inside of the valves. It was like they had never been removed in the entire life of the horn. Fortunately for 3+ valvers that only dates back to 1990. There was some minor flattening of the grip bumps but I tried to keep damage to a minimum. Relative to some of the other battle scars, it's very minor. And a small price to pay for clean functional valves. The square of inner tube however is just about toast. I guess I'll be opening my bottles the old fashioned way.

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I used penetrating lubricant too. I probably cleaned off a good layer of gunk when I sprayed the penetrating lubricant on the inside of the valves. It was like they had never been removed in the entire life of the horn. Fortunately for 3+ valvers that only dates back to 1990. There was some minor flattening of the grip bumps but I tried to keep damage to a minimum. Relative to some of the other battle scars, it's very minor. And a small price to pay for clean functional valves. The square of inner tube however is just about toast. I guess I'll be opening my bottles the old fashioned way.

I should have taken pics of mine.. It had this EBE (Extraterrestrial Biological Entity) Grey colored fuzz (NOT DIRT It was like a Spore) Growing on them and the bottom of the valve springs. UBER discusting! I think I was the first one to play that thing in 15 years. But the horn cleaned up so dang good. It came from New Jersey, maybe all those chemical plants helped it grow.. Just Kidding! I couldn't resist that crack..

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I used a Kellyberg for a while last year, it was nice to not have to hide my mouthpiece every time I set my horn down so I wouldn't burn my face off when I picked it up again.

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