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Ludwig Baritone Bugle Fingerings


Brad T.

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So I just purchased a Ludwig baritone bugle off ebay a few days ago. It has yet to arrive, but I'm not in a rush to get it. It's going to need a little bit of work, but it is a G bugle with piston to D and rotor to F.

What are the fingerings for a G-D-F bugle?

Thanks all!

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So I just purchased a Ludwig baritone bugle off ebay a few days ago. It has yet to arrive, but I'm not in a rush to get it. It's going to need a little bit of work, but it is a G bugle with piston to D and rotor to F.

What are the fingerings for a G-D-F bugle?

Thanks all!

Nice Lamp you bought.. Trust me you won't like it.

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So I just purchased a Ludwig baritone bugle off ebay a few days ago. It has yet to arrive, but I'm not in a rush to get it. It's going to need a little bit of work, but it is a G bugle with piston to D and rotor to F.

What are the fingerings for a G-D-F bugle?

Thanks all!

Much the same as a two valve bugle.The rotary is your 2nd valve and plays the same notes( so no low Ab,Eb,D, or Db).It takes a little coordination,because youre obvviously playing with 2 hands instead of one,but it does make a nice lamp. :thumbup:

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http://www.dynastyband.com/education/buglefingeringchart.php

Piston/Rotors rule.... :thumbup: But I liked my Olds P/R better.... :thumbup:

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Hey, I love my single valve Ludwig Soprano! :)

And I need to re-state something: This is originally a single piston G - D bugle, with the 1960s addition of an F rotor.

I understand that the F rotor will be the same as a 1st valve on a two valve bugle (or the piston on the types of P/R bugles you guys are thinking of).

I also know that the D piston will be the same as a 1+3 valve combination, and I've only seldomly seen a fingering chart for single piston bugles. So my question boils down to, what notes can you play with the combined D valve and F rotor? I think that lowers the bugle to C but I'm not too sure.

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Now that I see where you're coming from...... I don't have a flippin' clue. :thumbup: Have read about the addition of the rotor like you describe but..... have only read about it.

If no one posts with the answer, you might try ironlips or hornsup. They've helped me out with my single valve Baris. Have a single valve chart from the 1930s floating around but of course that doesn't tell you squat about the rotor notes.

Hope someone answers here cuz now my interest is peaked......

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Here's a picture of the mighty beast I'm expecting.

That is a Ludwig Classic Bass-Baritone, manufactured by Holton from 1962-~1966. An F# (half-step) rotary is pictured. The F rotary crook was twice as long, and doubled back on itself.

Your open notes (written) are the C harmonic series. The piston notes are the G harmonic series. Your scale is low G, low C, D, G, B, C, D. E, F, G, A, Bb, B, C, C#, D, E, etc.

The rotary will lower all these pitches a half step.

The scale of such a horn with an F (full step) rotary is low G, low Bb, low C, D, F, G, A, Bb, B, C, D, Eb, E, F, G, Ab, A, Bb, B, C, etc. The combo of both piston and rotary also gave marginally useful C#s and F#s.

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Now that HornsUp gave you the "scientific" explaination....

Starting below the staff in treble clef -

G - open (yeah, intonation heck)

C - open

D - valve

(gap)

F# - rotor

G - open or valve

(gap)

Bb - Rotor & valve

B - Rotor OR valve (pick it)

C - open

C# - both

D - valve

D#(Eb) - rotor

E - open

F - valve

F# - rotor

G - open

G#(Ab) - both (yech!)

A - valve or rotor

Bb - open or both

B - valve or rotor

C - open

anything above C - dial it in.

After seeing this, you'll know why going from G-D to G-F was such a radical improvement.

After playing on this relic, you'll really appreciate what some of those corps had to do to sound good.

Enjoy your toy.

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