Brad T. Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 I'm looking to buy a European/Small Shank/Eb tuba mouthpiece to use in my Smith Music Sales 1960s Contra. Currently I'm using an ancient Bach (Mt. Vernon stamp) 25 that I'm borrowing from a school that has Eb tubas that are not used. This mouthpiece fits correctly in the receiver on my leadpipe and produces an "adequate" tone. I'm guessing most of the tone issues are based with the horn, and not the mouthpiece. Anyway, the school would like their Bach 25 back, and I need a mouthpiece that will fit in my horn. I've tried bass trombone mouthpieces, and while they fit perfectly, they sound like garbage and I can't even play the lower register since the cup is so small. I'm looking for an Eb tuba mouthpiece most of all since they are designed for horns that are smaller in general, and while a Contra has almost twice the natural length of tubing as an Eb tuba, the bore is so narrow that regular tuba mouthpieces including both the Helleberg and the Helleberg 7B put way to much air into the horn and I just get all back pressure and very little sound. That plus the Helleberg mouthpieces only go into the receiver about 1/4 inch and they come out very easily... Obviously not for such a tiny bore horn. Does anyone know where I can find a mouthpiece similar to the Bach 25 with the small shank? Or maybe someone out there has an old contra mouthpiece from back in the day they'd be willing to sell? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Check out the Denis Wick model DW5886-3. It's a small shank tuba mouthpiece intended for smaller Eb tubas, and a very nice mouthpiece in general. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralTsoChicken Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Check out the Denis Wick model DW5886-3. It's a small shank tuba mouthpiece intended for smaller Eb tubas, and a very nice mouthpiece in general. I cannot endorse this post enough. Stick with the DW stuff and you'll be fine. They make great mouthpieces, in general, and have a heritage with the small bore stuff, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I'm guessing most of the tone issues are based with the horn, and not the mouthpiece. This horn, like its Whaley/Royce counterpart, was made with a BBb tuba body and a valve section cobbled from .555" baritone parts. Every one I ever saw used a standard receiver. But then, every one I saw was different. They were actually a marked improvement over the baby Getzens, but were annihilated by the 1969 debut of the Olds Ultratone BU-20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanguard Rich Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) This horn (Smith '60's contra), like its Whaley/Royce counterpart, was made with a BBb tuba body and a valve section cobbled from .555" baritone parts. Every one I ever saw used a standard receiver. But then, every one I saw was different. They were actually a marked improvement over the baby Getzens, but were annihilated by the 1969 debut of the Olds Ultratone BU-20. Played one of those Smith contras back in 1968 with the DP Vanguard. I believe that the Kilties also were using Smith's back then ("Dr.", care to comment?). Mine also had a slide on it with the rotor (the only one of five who had the slide), to crank out A-flats's on that horn. Some of them also had fins on the back (top). Wondering if Brad T's has one with a slide? Edited July 8, 2011 by Vanguard Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad T. Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) Mine does not have a slip slide. However, to compensate, every single length of tubing is entirely too long. When the horn is in-tune with no valves, the rotor is about 3/4 step flat, and the valve is about 1-1/2 steps flat. I have to lip up significantly to play E and A, lip down only slightly for E-flat and A-flat, and low D and D-flat are also possible with heavy lip bending. Perhaps mine doesn't have the correct mouthpiece receiver... It uses a leadpipe similar to that of a baby Getzen... unless someone threw a baby Getzen leadpipe on this horn in the past... Edit: Let me add some illustrations to the post. Also, this shall bring back some *hopefully* fond memories for some! The operator's side: The other side: Closeup of the valve/rotor section showing leadpipe with Bach 25 E-flat tuba mouthpiece: Closeup of the same location, this time with a standard Helleberg to show how poorly a standard tuba mouthpiece fits: Edited July 21, 2011 by Brad T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 The leadpipe pictured above is from a Getzen - the receiver, turned from hex stock, is unique to the "baby" contra. The valveslides look to be correct, or as close as one can expect from Old World Craftsmanship. Play through the harmonic series with all valve combinations, your results should be OK. Most tuba-type instruments can produce "false tones", which can sometimes be useable. The Getzen had a dynamite open low A. Low G was best played with the piston only. Having said all this, I could use a cuppla more smallshank tuba pieces myself. I have four tubas here that need 'em, and only own two mouthpieces that fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad T. Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Since the leadpipe for the horn is incorrect, do you, or anyone else, know what leadpipe will work? I have not purchased this horn yet, this is from the collection of Cincinnat Tradition, as is the baby Getzen I also currently house. I'd like to buy a piston/rotor Contra, in the "old world" style as you refer to, but I'd like to have one that has all of its faculties, such as correct leadpipe. Otherwise I may have to spend an afternoon at the storage location and just dig through contras until I find one reasonably intact. I may just break down and buy one of our Ultratone Contras, but I really don't want to because I just don't like the setup for holding/playing the piston. There's no real brace to hold on to or anything - just shove your hand in there and play... (insert a "that's what she said" joke if you like). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Kanstul or Badger Repair could possibly make yo up a leadpipe, but matching up to the Euro-sized .555 boresize could be a problem. It would cost you over a hundy, and still wouldn't be chromeplated. The Ultratone is a MUCH better playing instrument than its predecessors, and the .656 bore is more appropriate for this type of horn. I know several alumni-types who keep one around for parades. I've taught hundreds of contra players, and nobody has complained about the grip on the Olds. Until today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-horns Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 The leadpipe pictured above is from a Getzen - the receiver, turned from hex stock, is unique to the "baby" contra. The valveslides look to be correct, or as close as one can expect from Old World Craftsmanship. Play through the harmonic series with all valve combinations, your results should be OK. Most tuba-type instruments can produce "false tones", which can sometimes be useable. The Getzen had a dynamite open low A. Low G was best played with the piston only. Having said all this, I could use a cuppla more smallshank tuba pieces myself. I have four tubas here that need 'em, and only own two mouthpieces that fit. Ya beat me to it, buddy. The receiver of those old Getzens were all hex stock - I think the exception was the Concert Model frenchies. Care to shoot holes in that thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.