stein456 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Would anyone know if a basic soldering iron/gun and some silver solder do the job? Also, is silver solder obtainable at your basic hardware store OR is it only available at jewelry supply compary? I tried the lead solder and you have to "glob it on" and it looks ugly .... would never pass inspection. I would appreciate any information. bs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnZ Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I am by no means an expert at horn repair. IMO, if you are concerned about how the repair looks you should leave it in the capable hands of a brass tech. But it also sounds like the damage is already done. sounds like you didn't prep the metal first before laying on the solder. silver solder is available at most hardware and electronics stores, although if you don't prep well the same gobbing can occur. I'm going to sit back and learn on this one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 You need: A. An appropriate TORCH B. Appropriate FLUX C. Appropriate solder D. A brain A. Do NOT use an iron or a gun. A common propane torch will work, if you are VERY judicious in the application of heat. You only want enough to melt the solder. A butane mini-torch is great for smaller jobs. Pros use a gas/air torch and adjust the flame to befit the assignment. Solder flows TOWARD the heat - proceed accordingly. Modern epoxy lacquers will not burn, older nitrocellulose lacquers certainly will. B. A paste flux is best for beginners. There is less chance of the flux running and causing the solder to permanently adhere to silver plating. Older chrome bugles are easy to work on, nothing sticks to the chromeplate. Pros use a strong zinc chloride liquid flux. C. Good ol' 50/50 will do the trick, although there are more modern and safer options. Plumbers' solder is usually too fat. Do NOT use rosin-core electronic solder. D. Hot metal often looks just like cold metal. Do not repair with vinyl tape, duct tape, epoxy, JB Weld, super glue, chewing gum, or brazing rod. Don't try to just fix one broken joint. Remove the whole brace, then heat up and wipe off as much old solder as possible. CLEAN all the mating surfaces, using a file or emery strips. Assemble the components back into position so that there is no tension on the repaired joint. Then flux, and carefully run in only as little solder as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nukeme70 Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I've found the best way to repair a broken brace/part is to apply $20 to the local instrument repair guy. I ran across a local guy who has his own MDRSystem, and was just tickled to show me how it worked on my contra. For $40 and 2 hours of BS time, I got my braces repaired, dents removed, bell rolled, and valves adjusted. Plus, he's going to drop off my resume with his daughter to take to the HR department at her work. I think I came out ahead on the whole deal! But HornsUp's advice is probably more what you're looking for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camel lips Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Charlies Brass Works http://www.charliesbrassworks.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein456 Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 Thanks to all who responded, especially to "HORNSUP" I really appreciate your taking the time to post such an in depth repley. I will follow your instructions my friend. I have the TORCH, SOLDER and FLUX, the BRAIN part I'm still working on. Once again, thank you, happy new year. stein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melligene Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 You need:A. An appropriate TORCH B. Appropriate FLUX C. Appropriate solder D. A brain A. Do NOT use an iron or a gun. A common propane torch will work, if you are VERY judicious in the application of heat. You only want enough to melt the solder. A butane mini-torch is great for smaller jobs. Pros use a gas/air torch and adjust the flame to befit the assignment. Solder flows TOWARD the heat - proceed accordingly. Modern epoxy lacquers will not burn, older nitrocellulose lacquers certainly will. B. A paste flux is best for beginners. There is less chance of the flux running and causing the solder to permanently adhere to silver plating. Older chrome bugles are easy to work on, nothing sticks to the chromeplate. Pros use a strong zinc chloride liquid flux. C. Good ol' 50/50 will do the trick, although there are more modern and safer options. Plumbers' solder is usually too fat. Do NOT use rosin-core electronic solder. D. Hot metal often looks just like cold metal. Do not repair with vinyl tape, duct tape, epoxy, JB Weld, super glue, chewing gum, or brazing rod. Don't try to just fix one broken joint. Remove the whole brace, then heat up and wipe off as much old solder as possible. CLEAN all the mating surfaces, using a file or emery strips. Assemble the components back into position so that there is no tension on the repaired joint. Then flux, and carefully run in only as little solder as necessary. A scotchbrite pad may also be used for cleaning. NO....not the one with soap in it. Just sayin..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnZ Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 good stuff, folks. I have a few POS junk horns lying around here that i might practice on just for S&Gs. thought the solder gun/iron would concentrate the heat in too small an area to do much good, but I would have been afraid of laying on too much heat and damaging the metal. prep is the key. I'll still put my good horns in the hands of a skilled tech though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornsUp Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 thought the solder gun/iron would concentrate the heat in too small an area to do much good "Solder flows TOWARD the heat - proceed accordingly." A gun or iron is always going to be hotter than the object you're heating. So the solder will just gob up and not flow into the joint. You need a flame, so you can CONTROL the application of heat. An abrasive pad will be slow in removing corrosion from an open solder joint, but is great for cleaning up tuning slides. Get a 10/$1.00 pack from the Taiwan bin at your local hardware store, and you're set for life. Practice on a junker horn, or even start with some copper plumbing pieces (but not with water still in 'em, unless you want a mini version of a boiler explosion). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-horns Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Practice on a junker horn, or even start with some copper plumbing pieces (but not with water still in 'em, unless you want a mini version of a boiler explosion). Quite right, HornsUp. If someone really wants to DIY, practice on scrap copper or brass first. Plumbers make good money because they know how to solder properly - the solder goes on the joint, not the tools. You did miss one thing - If you're soldering in the area of a spring (water key, rotor lever, etc.) REMOVE THE SPRING before starting. The torch heat can and will take all the temper out of the spring metal. Better to take off the spring than have to find a replacement. (This could probably go under the "Brains" heading, but it is a common "awww sh--" item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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