MetalTones2012 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Pretty much any "convertable" tuba is a sales gimmick companies use to trick high schools into thinking they are getting a multipurpose instrument. I played a yamaha 105 in high school, and it was junk both on and off the field. I'm not sure if they were 105's, but my school has a set of 3 Yamaha onvertible tubas. I use one to rehearse drum corps stuff, and my only serious complaint is that it's a right shoulder model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ussglassman Posted December 27, 2008 Author Share Posted December 27, 2008 Ok, I'm making plans to have my leadpipe shortened, and my local music store is oblivious to "marching instruments." I'd like to know how much to remove, the max amount would be 3 inches, but I've heard some people saying removing even so much as a 1/2 inch will dramatically alter the sound. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_7 Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 I had about 1/2" taken off my Euphs leadpipe. By a flute player technician, so make sure you're painfully clear which tube(s) to cut. The receiver end needed the cuts. But because of the sleeves inside the tubes, the slide also needing cutting to compensate. Otherwise you only had more tuning slide exposed, but not the ability to push in any further. 4 tubes cut in total. You've got to bear in mind that it's 1/2" on each side of the slide in my case, so the horn is actually 1" shorter. I don't think it affected my Euph that much. In part because of the sturdy build making the nodal points less influential. And because in my eyes, I was just bringing the horn into pitch for my climate. Which is NOT sea level, NOT 85F+, and NOT a barometer reading of 30+. And I don't play Euph on a 6 1/2AL. Are you cutting it to alter the balance point? Or the pitch? Or both? On the King 1141SP I used to have, it could stand to have about 1 1/2" cut off it's main tuning slide. But in direct sunlight at 80F or warmer, it's stock pipe was sufficient. And the whole slide couldn't affect the tuning by more than 20 cents or so on the tuner anyway. So it'd technically need at least two tuning slides of varying lengths to play well in real world conditions IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ussglassman Posted December 28, 2008 Author Share Posted December 28, 2008 I'm planning to "cut" for both reasons. As it is now, the horn is uncomfortable to hold because of the imbalanced weight on my arms, and it is consistently flat...specifically how much I cant remember right now. If I were to cut 2 inches off just the leadpipe at minimum, it would make the horn itself slide backwards enough to bring its center of balance closer to my body, thus reducing the weight I actually have to "hold." That's the "physical" aspect. What I need to find out is the "musical" aspect regarding pitch. As it is right now, I'm using a small mouthpiece and I'm still somewhat under pitch with all the slides pushed in. I'd like to go back to using my larger Dillon PS01, which makes the horn play completely flat out of tune. So, given the fact that the mouthpiece size itself makes a difference, I'm thinking I should only cut off a little bit. But, given the physical balance issues, I'm not opposed to having to keep the tuning slide extended an inch or two. By the way, the horn has been "retired" from its marching/drum corps service. I'm planning to use it only as a concert/personal horn so I'm not concerned with outdoor/temperature variances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ussglassman Posted December 28, 2008 Author Share Posted December 28, 2008 I'm planning to "cut" for both reasons. As it is now, the horn is uncomfortable to hold because of the imbalanced weight on my arms, and it is consistently flat...specifically how much I cant remember right now. If I were to cut 2 inches off just the leadpipe at minimum, it would make the horn itself slide backwards enough to bring its center of balance closer to my body, thus reducing the weight I actually have to "hold." That's the "physical" aspect. What I need to find out is the "musical" aspect regarding pitch. As it is right now, I'm using a small mouthpiece and I'm still somewhat under pitch with all the slides pushed in. I'd like to go back to using my larger Dillon PS01, which makes the horn play completely flat out of tune. So, given the fact that the mouthpiece size itself makes a difference, I'm thinking I should only cut off a little bit. But, given the physical balance issues, I'm not opposed to having to keep the tuning slide extended an inch or two. By the way, the horn has been "retired" from its marching/drum corps service. I'm planning to use it only as a concert/personal horn so I'm not concerned with outdoor/temperature variances. LOL!!! Given these obvious issues, I think its safe to say we should expect yet another tuba design update from Dynasty sometime soon. Blue Devils marched 12 of these horns for the 08 season, and after talking to a few of the players about their experiences, as well as Dynasty tuba players from a couple other corps, I've concluded that the people asked to play these tubas in drum corps are unhappy with them on many different levels. When I made my choice to buy a used one for myself, I recalled having played one for a short time and was totally impressed with it. My tuba, however, has seen quite a lot of use, from tubing dents to having the bell squashed and rolled out on-the-go. Durability seems to be the Dynasty 875's claim to fame, being the only factor in which it outperforms its competition. That and the 4th valve seem to be the only reason the horn is so popular. HERE'S MY CHALLENGE TO YOU ALL!!!! Please post here what kind of drum corps tuba you have played, whether its a BBb or G. Please describe what you loved and hated about it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh161 Posted December 28, 2008 Share Posted December 28, 2008 I did not play it in corps, but for my marching band. My school bought a brand new Kanstul Kmt 202. 3/4 model( i was hoping for a larger one) Bb model. Good solid build. A little funky to carry to the side. There is not a very comfortable place to hold on to it when not on the shoulder. View port was ok. Great valve action inside... not so good in 25 degree weather, which is the norm in late october around these parts. Also with the local climate it was incredibly flat. Slides all in i was still running around 10 cents flat of 440. Great sound in mid range. Low stuff seems a bit stuffy on this horn. Being only a 3 valve, 3/4 horn i suppose its not exactly built for it. Over all great horns for a very good high school kid, or an open class corps. I would suggest a larger model for anyone with half a lung. Having marched After a season of corps i have the whole beastly sound going on. Horn Seemed to hold me back a little. Kanstul seems to be great quality work. I wouldnt suggest a 3/4 for anyone with a tuba lungs. Pretty good for someone who may normally play baritone or mello and does not have the typical tuba air support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh161 Posted December 28, 2008 Share Posted December 28, 2008 (edited) Also, at the corps i marched, our contras were playing on 5/4 G contras. Great deep sound. Prettty good build. They all seemed to pretty impressed with them. Unfortunately i never i got to play one. Edited December 28, 2008 by josh161 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ussglassman Posted December 28, 2008 Author Share Posted December 28, 2008 I'm not sure if they were 105's, but my school has a set of 3 Yamaha onvertible tubas. I use one to rehearse drum corps stuff, and my only serious complaint is that it's a right shoulder model. The Yamaha convertables can be left or right shoulder. The only horns that are "designed" for right shoulder are the Dynasty M845's, and you can buy a kit from Dynasty to be able to hold the leadpipe to the left shoulder. If it is a Yamaha, just remove the leadpipe and feed it in from the opposite direction. I don't understand how anyone could be comfortable twisting their hand and arm out of place that far to play a tuba on the right shoulder...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh161 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 The Yamaha convertables can be left or right shoulder. The only horns that are "designed" for right shoulder are the Dynasty M845's, and you can buy a kit from Dynasty to be able to hold the leadpipe to the left shoulder. If it is a Yamaha, just remove the leadpipe and feed it in from the opposite direction. I don't understand how anyone could be comfortable twisting their hand and arm out of place that far to play a tuba on the right shoulder...... It is not fun!! I had to play a VERY old boosey & hawks right shoulder convertible for the first half of my marching band season. It was incredibly uncomfortable to play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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