SoloSop420 Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 I have seen Kanstuls like this 275-500 for sops $400 being the average. 300-600 for mellos and baris $500 being average euphs 450-800 and contras as little as 2k and as much as 6k. Contras are extreamly hard to sell.Especially Kanstul. My Kanstul "PowerBore" with my name engraved was approx $600. Love the horn except for one thing: "MY _ _ _ _ _ _ _ valves stick!" This is the 2nd Kanstul I have had in which I have this problem. I have to wait until I see Paul Collins (Brass Shop) so he can fix it. He seems to be the only one able to do so. It really is frustrating. I am in the market for a new Sop. Don't care what it is. I just want to be able to play a horn w/o my valves sticking. It really _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sucks!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forever_Knight Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 i was wondering if youhave sold any of your horns if you have any of the mellos or contras left could you let me know thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonofjabba Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 My Kanstul "PowerBore" with my name engraved was approx $600. Love the horn except for one thing: "MY _ _ _ _ _ _ _ valves stick!" This is the 2nd Kanstul I have had in which I have this problem. I have to wait until I see Paul Collins (Brass Shop) so he can fix it. He seems to be the only one able to do so. It really is frustrating. I am in the market for a new Sop. Don't care what it is. I just want to be able to play a horn w/o my valves sticking. It really _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sucks!!!! Read my Last post on this thread! It explains the reason for it. The way to remedy it is a lot of elbo grease and some spare time. eBay seller: Bandroom1 sells valve lapping compound. eBay item number# 7335821105 You can try lapping the valves with this. I wouldn't go crazy with it, the idea it to make it smooth without it leaking air. You can also use the old standby. Plain Toothpaste, DO NOT USE BAKING SODA OR PEROXIDE TOOTHPASTE. Its messy as #### and a bear to clean the horn out afterwards but it worked on the Kanstul Contra I was issued from the corps a few years ago before getting my own. In a few years when I bank a couple extra bucks up I'm thinking of sending my contra to Artistic Engraving in Granger, Indiana for something special. www.artisticengraving.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camel lips Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 My Kanstul "PowerBore" with my name engraved was approx $600. Love the horn except for one thing: "MY _ _ _ _ _ _ _ valves stick!" This is the 2nd Kanstul I have had in which I have this problem. I have to wait until I see Paul Collins (Brass Shop) so he can fix it. He seems to be the only one able to do so. It really is frustrating. I am in the market for a new Sop. Don't care what it is. I just want to be able to play a horn w/o my valves sticking. It really _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sucks!!!! After years of enduring Kanstul Valves There are three things that will help. 1.Switch to Hertmans vavle oil for tight pistons or Pro-oil.Both are thinner oils and will work better in the Kanstuls 2.Soak the horn OVERnight in warm soapy water.Be sure to snake out inbetween the valve sections.This is very important.Kanstul has the tendancy to NOT get all the valve lapping compound out of these areas. 3.Loosen the bottom valve caps and just snug them,,not tighten them.The tendancy with the NON proffesional series valve casings that the G bugles have are extreamly tight at the bottom.The slightest bit of tension on the bottom caps will make the valves sticky. DO NOT attempt to lap the valves yourself.Have it proffesionally done.It cost about $35 dollars a valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Scott Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 I have been asking him for years about them.I don't think he even knows what one is. :P Sure he does. I bought my Kanstul Powerbore from Paul in '02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgailp Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I've been meaning to post. Got the bari Sat afternoon some time. Iis sooooooo nice to go back to 2v from v-piston. Thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbugle Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 My Kanstul "PowerBore" with my name engraved was approx $600. Love the horn except for one thing: "MY _ _ _ _ _ _ _ valves stick!" This is the 2nd Kanstul I have had in which I have this problem. I have to wait until I see Paul Collins (Brass Shop) so he can fix it. He seems to be the only one able to do so. It really is frustrating. I am in the market for a new Sop. Don't care what it is. I just want to be able to play a horn w/o my valves sticking. It really _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sucks!!!! 99% of the time when valves stick on any valved instrument is because it is dirty! The other 1% is usually because there's been some sort of dent or deformation in either valve casing or maybe the valve itself . Same goes for slides. I think if Kanstuls have a tendency for valves to sticks then it's because the valves have tighter tolerances than other horns. So when dirt gets in there (and it will on a football field all the time) the valve binds up more quickly. I've heard many people say their bugle is a crappy made horn compared to their professional line horn because the valves stick, etc. But they never take the professional horn outside on a dirty football field 80 days a summer. So the bugle gets tons more exposure to dirt than their pro indoor only horn. Regular full cleaning of the bugle and it will work just as well as the pro horn. I've also heard complaints "my valves need new springs". Think about it, how in the world can the springs get damaged or worn out? They always stay inside the valve (unless you take them out and accidentaly step on them) and they're never distorted or run anywhere near the yield point of steel. The springs should almost never go bad. Have the horn chem cleaned professionally and it'll play like brand new. Btw a popular problem is the 2nd valve sticking. Secret to that is the owner lays the horn down on the lead pipe side with the 2nd valve slide down. If done to hard or too often this will bend the 2nd valve slide a slight amount and bind the valve. I saw someone stick a screw driver up the bottom of their second valve trying to unstick it when all it needed was a slight tug on 2nd valve slide knuck and the valve dropped out like it was a new horn. Valve then had to be replaced because he put a hole in the valve from the screw driver. Lesson- always put the horn lead pipe up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonofjabba Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 99% of the time when valves stick on any valved instrument is because it is dirty! The other 1% is usually because there's been some sort of dent or deformation in either valve casing or maybe the valve itself . Same goes for slides. DING DING DING!!! WE HAVE A BINGO.. Even Brand new horns aren't Chem Cleaned exactly great. We got a NEW Contra From Kanstul that wasn't cleaned all that grat after final assembly. It was polished up to perfection, but the horn had some flux residue in it. I took care of it with Dawn and a GOOD Snake. Dr Dan's Cleaning Soap is good too. I like the dawn because it seems to remove the grease easier. And How many corps actually send their horns out at all for chem cleans!! I'm Scheduling mine for late 2007 early 2008. My repair man said If I clean it with Dawn and a snake every couple months. I'll be good for at least 2 or 3 years. Chem Cleaning also prevents Red Rot! Which can destroy a horn if not treated or repair. I've seen Good HEAVY Brass become soft as toilet paper from Red Rot. Some say its the acid in breath and spit. But many other variables can start the reaction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbugle Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 DING DING DING!!! WE HAVE A BINGO..Even Brand new horns aren't Chem Cleaned exactly great. We got a NEW Contra From Kanstul that wasn't cleaned all that grat after final assembly. It was polished up to perfection, but the horn had some flux residue in it. I took care of it with Dawn and a GOOD Snake. Dr Dan's Cleaning Soap is good too. I like the dawn because it seems to remove the grease easier. And How many corps actually send their horns out at all for chem cleans!! I'm Scheduling mine for late 2007 early 2008. My repair man said If I clean it with Dawn and a snake every couple months. I'll be good for at least 2 or 3 years. Chem Cleaning also prevents Red Rot! Which can destroy a horn if not treated or repair. I've seen Good HEAVY Brass become soft as toilet paper from Red Rot. Some say its the acid in breath and spit. But many other variables can start the reaction. Actually spit is slightly alkaline, but basically spit and breath has lots of ions in it and can contribute readily to corrosion. Galvanic corrosion just needs dissimilar metals; add an electrolyte like water/spit combination and you can get some good electrolytic corrosion working. Best bet is cleaning (soap, water, snakes/brushes) then dry it inside and out (an air compressor will help dry out the inards) and a good oiling. Oil on valves/slides and even throughout the horn will coat the surfaces and help prevent corrosion. A good player told me one time that they just use spit or water on their valves. That's still not the best; a clean horn can have great working valves just with spit or water as a lubricant, but you're in for easy corrosion of the metals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrassshop Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 HORNS ALL SOLD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.